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LIGHT TIPS
Light is a key ingredient in sucessful orchid growing. Too much light
will burn the leaves, too
little light - or light at the wrong time - will keep the plants from flowering.
Follow these tips to make sure your plants are receiving the illumination
they need to grow and bloom.
- Turn plants occasionally to keep them
from becoming lopsided. Don't
turn them when they are
in bud, though, or the flowers may twist around
at awkward angle to face
the sun.
- Move an underexposed orchid into stronger
light one step at a time over
aperiod of several weeks.
If you are using a light mater, try to increase
the light intensity by no
more than 100 to 200 footcandles at a time.
- Remove plants from full sun once their
flowers have opened. Bright
sunlight can make the colors
fade.
- Watch new acquisitions closely to be sure
they don't burn before they
adapt to a possibly stronger
eposure than that to which they were
accustomed.
- If you suspect a plant is receiving
too much sun, feel the leaves. If to
the touch of your fingers they
feel noticeably warmer than the
surrounding air, reduced
the light intensity.
- Be sure to keep your plants and windows
clean- dust and dirt block
valuable sunlight and rob your
indoor garden of sustenance.
- Some orchids need a period of uninterrupted
darkness at night in order
to flower. Plants growing in
a living area may be prevented from
flowering by the illumination
of a single table lamp.
TEMPERATURE
TIPS
Temparatures can vary considerably within a given growing area.
-
At night, the temparature is coolest next to the windows and near the
floor. warmest air in
the room. You can take advantage of these
small-scale variations
in temparature or eliminate them by mixing the
air with a fan. When
in dout, place a maximum-minimum thermometer
in the area so you will
know precisely what temparature your plants are
experiencing within 24-hour
period.
- Place orchids with lower temparature
needs closer to the floor and
those with higer temparature
needs on shelves above them. Those on
the top shelf will
likely experience the highest temparatures.
- Hang plastic curtains around
windows to create microclimates that are
cooler at night
and warmer during the day.
- Don't let plants touch the
windows in the winter in cold regions.
- Use a fan to circulate warm
air or bring cool air in from another part of
the house.
- Be on the alert for any hot or
cold drafts that may blow directly on
your orchids.
Temperature Requirements
The chart at right shows the ideal night temperature ranges for the kinds
of orchids.
You will notice that many kinds will grow in more than one temperature
category. This may be a reflection of the orchid's adaptability, or it
may be a result of plant breeding; many hybrids are much more adaptable
than their parents. For example, a hybrid produced by crossing a cool
growing parent with an intermediate growing parent may grow well in either
temperature range.
HUMIDITY TIPS
There are many ways to increase the humidity in a growing area. Here are
some pointers for care of evaporation trays and some ideas for maintaining
the moisture in the air around your plants.
-
Remove the pebbles two or three months evaporation tray every two or
three months and wash
them in a weak bleach solution to remove
accumulated salts and
algae. Do not add bleach or algaecide to water
in the trays when they
are in use.
- Use a turkey baster to remove any
excess water from the evaporation
trays afer you water
your plants.
- Mist your plants only if they
will have plenty of time to dry off before
nightfall.
- Plants themselves are effective
humidifiers. Group your plants to create
an attractive display
and humid microclimate,but don,t place them so
close that they restrict air
circulation.
POTTING TIPS
Potting an orchid is fun. You get to hold the plant, look at it from all
sides, and prune and wash the roots. Here are some tips to help you master
this enjoyable process:
-
Sift or wash the splinters and dust out of fir bark or tree fern before
use.
Otherwese, the smallest
particles will settle to the bottom of the pot
and clog the air spaces.
- Always sterilize tools with a propane
torch before working on each
plant to avoid spreading
viral diseases from one plant to another.
- Place a plastic bag over a
newly potted plant to help maintain humidity.
To allow some air flow,
don,t close the bag completely, and cut a few
small holes in the plastic
on all sides of the plant. Don,t allow direct
sunlight to strike
the covered plant-the trapped heat will roast it.
- Never use ordinary, all purpose
potting soil for orchids.
- Label plants immediately after
potting them, otherwise names and tags
are easily lost and often
impossible to match up again.
- Cymbidium pseudobulbs are held close
together by tough rhizomes.
Bend and twist the bulbs apart
to separate them, then cut through the
rhizome with a knife.
- To pot successfully, let this be
your motto: Make haste with deliberate
slowness.
WATERING TIPS
The old expression, "He who holds the hose, grows the rose,"
also applies to
orchids, but only to the extent that proper watering is the key to success.
Here are some suggestions to help you master this all important aspect
of orchid care.
-
Before you water a plant, lift the pot to see how much it weighs. With
some practice, you will
be able to tell whether the plant needs water
simply by hefting it.
- Water your plants in the morning
so that the excess water will
evaporate rapidly.
- All other things being equal.
Plants in clay pots or small pots will
generally require water
more often than will plants in plastic pots or
large pots.
- You can tell if a pseudobulbous
orchid is receiving enough water by
lookintg at the pseudobulbs.
The youngest pseudobulb shoud remain
plump, but the older
ones may shrink slightly between waterings
without harm.
- As a potting medium ages,
the air spaces in it shrink, making it retain
more water. Thus, newly
repotted plants need to be watered more often
than those that have
been in the same growing medium for a while. In a
collection of many plants,
it will help at watering time if those in aged
potting medium are separated
from those that have been recently
potted.
FERTILIZER TIPS
-
Most fertilizer problems result from too much rather than too little
fertilizer. Keep in mind
that in the wild. Orchids grow in a lean regime.
If the tips of the
leaves become dry and blackened. You may be
overfertilizing. Cut
off the burned tips with sterilized scissors and pour
plenty of fresh water
through the medium to flush out the excess
fertilizer. If the symptoms
are severe, repot the plant with fresh medium
regardless of the time
of year.
- Fertilize only when the plants
are actively growing - in other words,
fertilize only when the
season and growing conditions are conducive to
active growth.
- Always use a measuring spoon
when adding fertilizer; guessing leads
to overfertilizing!
- Don,t fertilize plants suffering from
too little water or damaged roots.
Water them with plain
water until they recover.
- Water plants immediately before
fertilizing to prevent injury from
fertilizer salts.
Resist the urge to "push" your plants with extra fertilizer.
Extra fertilizer actually
stunts plants.
- It is generally thought that
it is better to fertilize orchids with nitrogen
derived from sources
other than urea. If in doubt about the source, read
the label on the container.
- Until you settle on one or
more fertilizers that give you the results you
want with your orchids,
try products labeled specifically for orchids or
purchase the fertilizers
sold by specialist orchid growers.
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